WATER COOLING SYSTEM.

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Foreword

You must admit that the temperature is 66 ° C for Atlon 1000 MHz (do not laugh, my principle is not iron, but what surrounds it) at rest, and at 100% load 75 ° C, a bit much ... Therefore, this unit was born.

This SVO was originally conceived as external - put it in a corner and let it stand there, and only two hoses are suitable for the computer, in my opinion, and ideas for the future the system unit can be stuffed with something else, for example - neon lights, UV lights, beautiful round loops glowing in UV, etc. Unfortunately, the drawings of some elements were not preserved, and they are not needed - everyone does everything for himself, starting from the materials that he has. The main principle.

Accessories for water cooling system

Pump - Atman-103, sold at any pet store. It is installed inside the expansion tank on the wall using suction cups.

The regular outlet nozzle of the pump was thrown into the trash due to the fact that its diameter did not fit my needs (hose diameter). Instead, it installed a homemade one with an input diameter of 16 mm, an output of 10 mm (outer diameters) and a transition cone.

Radiator - from the stove of a Toyota car, gave a friend for two kopecks of beer, drunk together. It is cleared of dirt by acetone, inside it is washed by it, outside is painted with spray paint. The inlet and outlet fittings are replaced, again, with homemade ones. Installed tightly on the sealant. It turned out great - it’s not flowing anywhere.

Two fans installed in the online store are installed on the radiator - they cool and look great!

Long thought how to fix the fans on the radiator. It turned out everything is simple - down with self-tapping screws and complex fasteners !!! Everything ingenious (well, humble as I am) is just ...

To fix the fans, several rubber bands (erasers) from the nearest clerical shop and cable ties were needed.

Elastic bands are cut into cubes, couplers are inserted into the mounting holes of the fans and fixed with the same cubes.

Then the couplers are inserted into the slots of the radiator.

We fix it on the back with cut locks from the same screeds. And this is what we get

I think it's great ... and easy !!! The expansion tank is a plastic food container, in my case round, but there are others in shape, can be found in the manufactured goods store. To add fluid, the neck of a 5-liter water bottle is cut into the lid of the tank.

Hoses - a silicone tube with an internal diameter of 8 mm; I bought a liquid level at a hardware store.

Mounted on fittings with pre-heated hoses for a more tight fit. Landing places are crimped by clamps from the nearest car shop.

Relay - BS 115C, purchased from a radio store. It is necessary to automatically turn on the CBO at the same time as the computer is turned on.

The system is mounted on a plexiglass platform, found in the garage, because it was badly scratched, I had to make it matte. The tank is mounted on rubber gaskets to reduce vibration during pump operation.

To enter the hoses into the computer case, an adapter panel is made from a standard plug. There are two fittings on it, an input and an exit of a cooling liquid, and a connector for power supply - 12V.

The CBO is connected to the panel using this tail:

I pay special attention to safety measures when handling electricity!

All live parts must be protected against accidental contact with fingers!

In general, the unit looks like this

The overall dimensions of the system are as follows: D270, Sh200, V160.

The water block is made of M1 brand copper. This copper plate was purchased at the color reception center for 200 r. Its diameter is 65mm, height 25mm. It is assembled from two parts, the base and the cover, made in the form of a glass with holes for fittings. The thickness of the base is 5 mm, on it are located heat-removing ribs 2 mm wide, 7 mm high with a 2 mm pitch, a total of 11 ribs. This product is made using turning and milling machines. The design is absolutely airtight and tested under a pressure of 4 atmospheres.

The bottom side adjacent to the processor is polished. In order to prevent the water block from oxidizing and not darkening over time (copper all the same), it was necessary to cover it with a thin layer of automotive varnish from a spray can.

The waterblock fixture is individual for each, it all depends on the type of mother and the processor used. I went the simplest way. I installed metal racks in the holes near the processor on the motherboard (the main thing is not to forget about dielectric pads).

Small "ears" are made of fluoroplastic, with the help of which the water block is attached to the motherboard with screws. The charm of this material is its strength and ease of processing, only a knife was needed from the tool. And he also springs a little and, therefore, when installed on the processor, he will not allow to tighten the screws until the formation of unwanted cracks on it.